This past week, my church family lost a dear brother to what a news article called a "freak accident" while working on his car in his driveway. Saddened by the news, I couldn't help but think about all the close calls I had while working on cars before I made a profession out of it.

With that thought, I realized "freak accident" was not the right terminology. People being seriously injured or killed when working on their car is more common than one might think. A simple tire change in the driveway or side of the road can become life threatening.

The tragedy of losing Sgt. Brad Piccirillo gives me the burden of reminding our community about the dangers of working on our cars.

Supporting Vehicles:
The number one most fatal mistake, as in Brad's situation, is raising the vehicle to work under you. Always, always use good jack stands and good ramps with wheel chocks when working under the vehicle. A floor jack or the jack that came with the car is not sufficient if you're getting under the car. Don't be in a hurry getting under an improperly supported vehicle. If you're at all unfamiliar with changing a tire, ask for help.

Fans & Belts:
A common way people are maimed when working on cars involves the engine cooling fan and fan belts: If the engine is running and the hood is up, don't even consider putting any hand or limb anywhere near the engine compartment. Put the car keys in your pocket before reaching under a hood. I have personally seen seasoned technicians loose fingers because they were careless with this.

Radiator Caps:
It's tempting, but one of the first mistakes people make when their car is overheating is taking the radiator cap off. This almost always results in getting badly scalded. Don't do it! The car must be stone cold before removing a radiator cap. Again, if you're not sure, get qualified help.

Batteries:
One of the easier items for the average do-it-yourselfer to handle on their own is a battery change. It's generally not too hard but can be very dangerous. Again, I have personally seen seasoned technicians get seriously injured by this one. Given the right set of circumstances, batteries can blow up. When batteries off of gas hydrogen geet combined with a small spark - BOOM - you just got an acid bath. Always, always wear gloves and safety glasses when changing batteries or even jump-starting a car.

Be safe!!

To learn more information about Sgt Brad Piccirillo, click here.

Join co-hosts Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can also reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

Now that 100-degree-plus temperatures have arrived and are here to stay, having piece of mind and confidence that your car is in good shape will keep you cool.

Whether you're staying in town for the summer and just need a reliable commuter, traveling across the desert to the beach or heading north to escape the heat, it's important to have your car inspected by a professional or at least check the basics yourself.

Being proactive with the care and maintenance of your car keeps you in the driver's seat, so to speak. When you have a breakdown the circumstances may force you to make decisions that you otherwise wouldn't. Maybe you won't be able to get to your regular shop and mechanic that know your car, maybe you'll find yourself under pressure from a road side battery peddler in a parking lot late at night or buying a replacement tire that does not match, maybe...who knows what? Perhaps the wrath of interrupting the family vacation is the worst consequence.

In most cases having a relationship with a shop and having them do a pre-trip inspection or comprehensive inspection is the best bet. It's best to plan and have service done weeks in advance of any planned trip. Going in for an oil change the day before you load up and head out is not a good idea.

Here's a list of the basic, minimum items that should be inspected, some can be checked your-self.

• Tires: Visually inspect for any cracking (dry-rot) on the side walls and tread area, look for even tread wear across the tread of the tire. Unusual, choppy or uneven tread wear can be a sign of a worn steering part or suspension issue. Set the tire pressure to the specification found in your owner's manual or the placard that can typically be found on the driver door jamb. All tires have a date code. If you can determine they are more than five to six years old, they should be considered for replacement.

• Brakes: Brakes are typically not a "breakdown" issue, however should be inspected at regular intervals. It is best to have this done by a certified technician.

• Battery: Ensure that the battery is properly secured and held in place. Make sure the connections are tight, clean and free of corrosion, including the top of the battery and tray area. If the battery has removable caps, you can check the acid level and adjust with distilled water. The battery does NOT need to be full! It takes specialized equipment to electronically load-test a battery and check its charge level and predict its expected life. If the battery and tray area are dirty, it can be cleaned with a solution of baking soda and water and then rinsed thoroughly. Always use eye protection! The expected battery life in Phoenix is about 30 months.

• Belts and hoses: Because of changes in belt material, simply looking for cracks will not be enough to tell you a bet is worn out. Shops have gauges to measure belt wear. It is not uncommon to have a tensioner pulley or belt idler wear out and cause a belt failure. Check with your shop or owner's manual for the timing belt replacement interval if applicable. Hoses can be squeezed to see if they have soft spots or crunching. Look for seepage or swelling around the clamps.

• Radiator: NEVER OPEN A HOT RADIATOR. Check the coolant level in the radiator and overflow or expansion tank. It is usually ok to fill the radiator to the top, however expansion tanks and overflow bottles have high and low marks to indicate the proper fill level. Inspect the radiator cap gasket for cracks. Always use the proper coolant for your car; there are many different types and colors. For example, just because two are pink, it does not mean they are the same or compatible!

• Lights and wipers: Have someone in the car operate the lights. Check all the signals, headlights, back-up lights and license plate light bulbs. Inspect the wiper blades for torn edges and even wiping while, at the same time, squirting the washers to see if they are working and aimed properly.

This list is just the basics and is the minimum that should be done heading into the summer.

Join co-hosts Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can also reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

Should I service my transmission? This is the number one most frequently asked question on the Bumper To Bumper Radio Show as well as through the emails we receive every day. The questions surrounding transmission service exist because of the plethora of bad information in our industry in regards to Transmissions. Whether from overzealous oil suppliers, an automotive manufacturer in the business of selling cars, a well-intentioned industry expert who doesn't know any better or some old school wives tales that no longer apply, most are misinformed about transmission service.

So where does the bad information come from? Transmissions are very much a specialty that frequently changes every half-decade or so with new technologies and those who truly understand the intricacies of transmissions are a very small minority. Most generalist automotive technicians who are happy to give advice on transmissions have barely seen the inside of a transmission and don't know how and why transmissions work. If they have seen the inside of a transmission, it was decades ago on one they dissected in trade school. This would offer no practical experience for their basis of transmission recommendations.

Although misguided, I believe the public consensus has become not to service transmissions even though transmissions fail 4 to 1 over engines. Most vehicle owners have never bought a complete engine, but the average person buys a transmission every 7.5 years. Ironically, we service our engines 4 - 1 over our transmissions. With these statistics in mind, this seams backwards doesn't it?

Its true, a bad transmission service is worse than not servicing your transmission at all. However, a properly performed regular transmission service is your best defense against ever having to buy the unwelcomed transmission. Regardless of the manufacturers questionable recommendations, someone qualified to do so should service your transmission every 2-3 years at minimum. With the changes in technologies, this recommendation will again change at some point, but as a guide it works for now letting you know it shouldn't be ignored.

With this being said, each vehicle and transmission are unique and there is not a one size fits all way about doing things. The specifics of your transmission service need to be understood. For more information about the specifics for your transmission, email us at bumpertobumperradio.com and a seasoned transmission technician will identify your needs, but also someone qualified to perform your next transmission service.

Join co-hosts, Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can also reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

With fuel prices nearing the $4.00 mark, and likely continuing to climb, I'm often asked, "does my car really need Premium Fuel?" The answers is, yes and no. However, there is a difference between "want" and "need." All vehicle manufacturers will have a specification or requirement for the grade of fuel they want you to use. The engine performance rating, fuel management and design is developed and measured using the fuel designated by them. You will find this information in the owner's manual and likely on the gas cap door. It is always best to follow those guidelines. If the manufacturer says use regular then do not waste your money on premium!

Using premium fuel in a car that does not require premium is not only a waste of money but it will probably have a negative effect. You will likely see a decrease in fuel mileage and potentially accelerate and promote carbon and deposit build up in the valve train and combustion chamber, which can lead to higher maintenance costs.

Using regular fuel in a car designed for premium, has the highest potential for causing engine damage, poorer performance (compared to potential) and reduced fuel mileage. A lower octane or regular fuel ignites in the engine at a much lower temperature resulting in pre-ignition/detonation, commonly referred to as pinging. The car's computer, through various sensors, will detect this and make adjustments to the ignition timing resulting in decreased performance. The use of a higher octane fuel than desired may also just mask a problem or maintenance issue that already exists in the engine.

Just because you're not driving a high performance German sports car or Corvette you may be surprised that the car you're driving may require premium fuel. I was surprised to find Subaru, Volkswagen, GMC and many Nissan models among others on a list of cars that should use premium fuel…even a Nissan Sentra!

It used to be you had to buy premium to get fuel with additives and detergents. Nowadays you'll find that most retailers have the "secret sauce" in all grades of fuel. I suggest using a retailer that has a Top Tier fuel rating. In all fairness, Costco Gasoline is not on the list but I believe most, if not all, of their stations are mixing additives/detergents on site to achieve a top rating. I buy most of my fuel from Costco and QT.

My advice is to follow the recommendations of your particular manufacturer. Doing this will help you achieve the best performance and economy possible.

Join co-hosts, Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can also reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

This is an ongoing debate in the automotive industry. I have found that if you have several shop owners in the same room, you will get several different answers. Each owner has developed his own method for charging for diagnostic. As a consumer you must understand, all shops are driven by the same economic engine, so whether it is a "line item" on the invoice, a larger profit margin on a part, a surprise part that you find out about after you already have approved the work or simply a "cut corner" you never knew about, auto shops need to satisfy their overhead. With this in mind, I would insist that you are paying for diagnostic or lack thereof whether you know it or not.

So as a consumer, how do we navigate paying for diagnostic or not paying for diagnostic? We know we need to get our car fixed, but we don't want to spend any more money than is necessary. I don't blame you. It's a very common question we encounter every day in our business. I find people willing to choose a shop based on whether or not the shop charges diagnostic fees. I am pretty certain this is not a good deciding factor for picking a reputable auto shop.

This may sound counter intuitive, but stay with me. I say to save money on auto repair, favor the shops that are honest and upfront about diagnostic charges. "Honest" is the key word. Remember, it's part of our economic engine, it's not simply that one guy is making a whole lot more money than the next because he charges diagnostic. On the other hand, some shops are upfront, yet choose to use free diagnostic as a loss leader. The problem that a consumer will run into with free diagnosis is when the technician or business is not getting paid for the work and its "pro bono", you don't generally get complete effort. It's simply human nature. We can all remember an instance of the "buddy deal" on some work but when there was an issue it was difficult to resolve because of the buddy deal. No one made money although money was exchanged. Cut rate price almost always equals cut rate service.

Let's understand diagnostic charges and inspection fees. There are typically two types of diagnostic or inspection fees. The first type is "Diagnostic" where there is an issue and something has to be intellectually figured out with testing. A good diagnostic identifies what broke and why it broke. In this instance if we don't identify both cause and failure, we don't have a complete diagnostic. The second type is simply an inspection fee. For the ones who do this for free, this is the common loss leader. I am a big fan of a thorough inspection fee that's a paid service. That's the best way to understand your car as a whole so that you know how to spend money wisely. Again with the "pro bono inspection" the technician may just hit the highlights he is looking for. Paid service keeps the motives inline.

To bring this full circle, the number one thing that I find reduces that amount of money you spend on auto repair is a long term relationship with a quality auto shop, some of which will charge diagnostic. So if your shop charges for diagnostic, don't hold it against him - they are just being financially responsible and not hiding a true cost somewhere else in the bill.

Join co-hosts, Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can also reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

I've received multiple emails lately questioning why customers are being told they need to replace all four tires or even two tires when only one of their tires is actually bad.

All-Wheel Drive (AWD) is the common denominator when it comes to "requiring all 4 tires." Yes, if your car is AWD the tires should be replaced in sets of four matched tires. An AWD vehicle's drivetrain is designed to do just what it implies: drive or apply power to any or all of the four wheels at any time. AWD greatly improves traction in the rain, snow or any other slippery conditions and provides for even greater performance and traction in dry driving conditions.

On AWD vehicles, the front and rear axles are connected by a driveshaft to a transfer case or viscous coupling. It's the transfer case's job, along with a computer in some cars, to apply power to any of the four wheels at any given time. This is determined by the amount of slip or wheel spin on any tire when compared to the other three. For example, if you're on ice and the left front tire starts to slip, it will be spinning faster than the other three the computer will sense the loss of traction. When this happens the car will reduce power to that spinning wheel and apply more power to the other three. That is exactly how the system is designed to work.

Having mismatched tires can trick your car into thinking there is loss of traction and wreak havoc on the AWD components. Forcing the transfer case and viscous coupling to work all the time will cause excessive heat and wear until there is a failure. If this is happening, you experience a binding or bucking feeling on tight turns, chirping tires or difficulty steering at low speeds.

Specifications vary between manufacturers: Audi says the rolling radius of all tires must remain the same or measure within 4/32 inch, Subaru says all should be with in a .25 inch circumference, General Motors say all tires should be with in 2/32 inch. Even brand-new tires can vary in size. At my shop, even when installing four new tires, we use a stagger gauge and measure the rolling radius of each tire to ensure the tires are matched to avoid problems.

In some cases you can replace a single tire, especially if they're expensive! If the other tires on your car have good tread remaining and are in good condition, we may consider having a new tires shaved to match the tread of the other tires.

On front- and rear-wheel drive cars, replacing single tires or pairs of two is fine in most cases.

• Try to avoid mixing brands or tread patterns. Can you imagine how goofy you would walk wearing a running shoe and a heel? Maybe your car won't feel goofy, but it sure will handle and drive differently with mismatched treads.
• New tires should always be installed on the rear axle.
• Never install a tire with a lower speed rating than specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
• Check tire pressure monthly.
• Rotations should be done every 5,000 to 7,000 miles.
• Always refer to your owner's manual for specifics about your car.

Check out co-hosts, Matt Allen and Dave Riccio on Bumper to Bumper Radio, Arizona's top automotive show heard every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. right here on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR. Call in with your questions at (602) 277-5827. You can reach us 24/7 at bumpertobumperradio.com for the best partners, products and advice!

The Automatic Transmission Rebuilder Association (A.T.R.A.), a 2,500-member trade organization recently did extensive research into why some consumers prefer the dealership and why certain consumers prefer independent facilities for service and repair.

The answer has certainly changed over the last 15 years. Traditionally, car dealers made their money selling cars and the service department was just something they had to do. Coincidentally, there was not a tremendous amount of focus on the consumer in the service department. The service was somewhat unresponsive and the "we're the dealership" attitude pushed consumers away.

Today, cars are lasting longer and with the tight economy, new car sales weren't what they used to be. The service department at the dealership has become a priority to drive the economic engine of the dealership, which boils down to the dealerships marketing much more to the independent repair facility consumer and the cradle-to-grave marketing approach for the vehicle. With a decade of this marketing come some implied notions about the dealerships service department.

Some of the latest focus groups now show first blush impressions about the dealerships service department are higher quality, with the availability of Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts, training and qualification of the technicians, a higher-priced, nicer product, and a felling of safety as the dealership and dealership service presents no threat to factory or aftermarket warranties.

I won't just be biased on these points, but I do want to dispel these myths.

1. Original equipment parts and tools are readily available to all the independent auto repair shops. On the flip side, just because you're at the dealer does not mean you're getting OEM parts. Dealerships will, and do regularly use, "aftermarket parts" in their service departments.

2. Factory-trained technicians are again available at both the independent auto repair shops as well as the dealership. Just because you're at the dealer, doesn't mean you have a factory-trained technician. Some are, some aren't. There is not a technician in our independent shop working today that could not walk in and get a job at almost any dealership tomorrow.

3. Service outside the dealership does not compromise your warranty. The federal government shut that down long ago because it prohibits competition and creates a monopoly. That implication is still given in advertising and some dealership service department's conversations with consumers.

Whether you choose a dealership or an independent auto repair shop is up to you. There are pros and cons to both. It will always mostly fall on the quality of the people at the business you are working with. As an industry advocate, I am neither pro-dealership nor pro-independent. I simply like to educate the motoring public by dispelling myths that lower the professionalism of our industry.

We hope you can join Dave Riccio and Matt Allen on Bumper to Bumper Radio, every Saturday at 11:00 a.m. on News/Talk 92.3 KTAR for an hour of automotive talk that will lower your anxiety and put you in the know when it comes to automotive stuff.

Is the nostalgia of do it yourself auto repair going away? From father-son restoration projects, to oil changes in your driveway, to the neighborhood backyard mechanic advice is there a value to lifting the hood yourself?

With the changes in technology and the need for powerful computers to diagnose your late model car I would say fewer and fewer DIY projects are available on your car. While we do believe there is still value to DIY projects, we offer words of caution. A mistaken well-intended do it yourselfer project, some out of date advice from an old timer back yard mechanic can cost you dearly if you're not careful.

First you need to identify the purpose of your DIY project. Is it to save money, satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself or a bonding moment with your 16-year-old son that you are after?

Let's start with the "project car". We hear a lot about these, the typical 68' Mustang or an old VW Bug. This is a great experience for a father-son or even daughter to bond and spend weekends in the garage tinkering, trips to the parts store and learning what dad knows about cars. There is a great sense of satisfaction when you and your child get that learners permit hot off the press and go for a spin in your new pride for the first time.

Next we'll talk about a weekend in the garage with your Monday-Friday transportation. Whether it's a "simple" oil change, a belt replacement or a brake job, you need to be prepared and equipped with the right tools and experience to do the repair safely and properly. If you want the satisfaction of doing it yourself, just know your limitations. If you are trying to save money, be careful. A little bad advice from a neighbor who has a friend that knows someone who used to mechanic who slept at a Holiday Inn last night can cost you dearly. And remember, you need this car to get to work on Monday!

Here are a couple examples: A listener wrote to tell us about needing to pay $3,500 for a transmission because a well-intentioned neighbor said to go ahead and add stop slip to the transmission. The neighbor thought it was a transmission problem. Guess what, it wasn't, it had an engine misfire that gave a symptom similar to a transmission failure. The additive that this listener added turned out to be poison to their transmission. The additive may have been helpful as a last ditch effort on your dads 77' Buick but the death blow to what was a perfectly fine transmission. In this instance, a bad spark plug ended up costing $3,500 more than some diagnosis and a handful of spark plugs.

Another listener just knew he had a bad fuel pump on the family mini van. After shopping around for the best deal on a fuel pump and buying a service manual he went for it! Well, after a few hours with the car on a jack (with jack stands, I hope) and a little gas dripping down his sleeve the fuel pump was installed. Oh no! The van did not start; the fuel pump was not bad! After having the car towed to the shop and spending a little money on diagnosis and testing it turned out to be a relay. The car was fixed for less than $200.